With a final vanishing twine of gold on the horizon, the polar night begins. For the Fins, this is ‘kaamos’ – a time of twilight when, for weeks in the Arctic Circle, the sun does not rise – when the border between day and night shifts out of focus. For a few hours, glancing across Earth’s curve, a halo of solar rays still refracts, suffusing the atmosphere. Low light bathes the snow and ice below – there, silhouetted figures wend and wonder in a languid, hazy glow. Conjuring the shape-shifting fabric of the firmament, Kaamos casts a spell, with luminous tendrils dancing, haunting the evening sky.